Spray Foam Insulation Calculator

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Spray foam is sold in board feet — one square foot at one inch thick. Enter your area and target thickness to size the job, count kits, and compare DIY against a contractor.

Your project

Covers cuts, compression and odd bays. 10% is the usual default.

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Prices as of Oct 11, 2026, 4:41 AM UTC. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

How this calculator works

  • Board feet = area × thickness in inches × (1 + waste %)
  • R-value = R-per-inch × thickness
  • Kits = board feet ÷ kit rating, rounded up

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Frequently asked questions

Open-cell or closed-cell spray foam?

Closed-cell gives about R-6.5 per inch, adds structural rigidity and blocks vapor — best for rim joists, crawlspaces and thin cavities. Open-cell is about R-3.7 per inch, much cheaper, and fine for interior walls and attics with room to spare.

Are DIY spray foam kits worth it?

For under about 600 board feet, yes. Past that, contractor pricing per board foot usually beats kit pricing and you get proper ratio control and cleanup.

What is a board foot of spray foam?

One square foot at one inch thick. A job needing 1,000 sq ft covered at 2 inches is 2,000 board feet. Contractors quote in board feet and kits are sold by board feet, so it is the unit to get quotes on — giving a contractor your floor area instead invites quotes that are not comparable.

Open-cell or closed-cell spray foam?

Closed-cell has a much higher R per inch, adds structural rigidity and is its own vapour retarder, which makes it the choice where depth is limited or moisture must be controlled. Open-cell is cheaper per board foot, expands far more so it fills irregular cavities well, and stays vapour-open, which some assemblies need in order to dry.

Can I spray foam myself?

Small two-part kits exist and work for rim joists, gaps and modest areas. Whole-house work is a different matter: it needs the right substrate temperature, correct mix ratio and proper respiratory protection, and foam that goes off wrong does not come off the framing easily. The failure mode for DIY foam is expensive and permanent, which is why most whole-house jobs are contracted.

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