Attic Insulation Calculator

Enter your attic footprint and what's already up there. This works out the extra depth needed to reach your target R-value, how many bags or batts that takes, and what it should cost.

Your project

Old blown fiberglass ≈ 2.5, cellulose ≈ 3.2, old batts ≈ 3.0

Covers cuts, compression and odd bays. 10% is the usual default.

Gear for this job

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Prices as of Oct 11, 2026, 4:41 AM UTC. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

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How this calculator works

  • Existing R = existing depth × R-per-inch of what's up there
  • R needed = target R − existing R
  • Depth to add = R needed ÷ R-per-inch of new material
  • Bags = (R needed × area) ÷ bag coverage rating, then add waste

Keep going

Frequently asked questions

Can I add new insulation over old insulation?

Yes, as long as the old material is dry and not mouldy. Never lay faced (paper or foil backed) batts over existing insulation — the facing traps moisture. Use unfaced batts or blown-in.

How many inches is R-49?

About 19–20 inches of blown fiberglass (at R-2.5 per inch), about 14 inches of cellulose, or 13 inches of high-density batts. Loose-fill bags list a coverage chart on the side — follow it.

Can I add new insulation on top of old?

Usually yes, and it is the cheapest upgrade available. Blown-in or unfaced batts go straight over existing material. The one thing not to do is lay faced batts on top of existing insulation with the facing down, because that puts a vapour retarder in the middle of the assembly where moisture can collect against it. Use unfaced material when topping up.

How deep should attic insulation be?

Divide your target R-value by the material's R per inch. At R-49 that is roughly 13.5–14 inches of cellulose or about 19.5 inches of blown fibreglass — the difference is why the same target produces very different depths. Mark the depth on a rafter before you start so you can see when you have reached it.

Should I cover the attic hatch and recessed lights?

The hatch yes, with a rigid box or a purpose-made cover, because an uninsulated hatch is a large hole in the middle of the ceiling. Recessed lights need care: only IC-rated fixtures may be covered, and anything not rated for contact needs a clearance kept around it. Burying a non-IC fixture is a genuine fire risk, not a code technicality.

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Additional depth to add

20 in

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