Van Insulation Calculator
In a van you cannot solve anything by adding depth — every inch of insulation is an inch you no longer live in. That makes R per inch the only material property worth comparing, and the steel ribs the thing most conversions get wrong.
Your project
Most conversions have 1 to 2 inches before the space becomes unusable.
Covers cuts, compression and odd bays. 10% is the usual default.
Your results
- Ceiling area
- 64 sq ft
- Wall area
- 121 sq ft
- After windows and doors
- Floor area
- 64 sq ft
- Total with waste
- 274 sq ft
- R-value at this thickness
- R-6
- Interior width lost
- 2 in
- Both walls at 1 in each — you would be left with about 67.6 in inside
- Highest R per inch available
- Closed-cell spray foam at R-6.5/in
- Would give R-6.5 in the same 1 in
- Thermal bridging
- Ribs conduct straight through
- Bare steel ribs bypass whatever is in the bays. A thin continuous layer over the ribs is worth more than thicker insulation between them
Estimates use typical US material and labor pricing. Confirm quantities against the coverage chart on the bag before you buy.
Gear for this job
Spray Foam Insulation Kit
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Prices as of Oct 1, 2026, 4:38 AM UTC. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
How this calculator works
- Ceiling and floor area = cargo length x interior width
- Wall area = 2 x cargo length x interior height - openings
- R-value = material R per inch x thickness
- Interior width lost = thickness x 2
Frequently asked questions
What is the best insulation for a van conversion?
The one with the highest R per inch that you can actually fit to a curved surface, because thickness is the binding constraint rather than cost or area. Rigid boards give the most R per inch but do not follow compound curves, which is why many conversions combine board on the flat panels with something conformable in the ribs and voids. The calculator compares your choice against the highest R per inch available at the same thickness.
How thick should van insulation be?
Most conversions land between one and two inches, and the reason is geometry rather than performance — two inches on both walls takes four inches off your interior width, which in a van you feel immediately. The calculator shows exactly how much width your chosen thickness costs, because that trade-off is usually what decides it.
Do I need a vapour barrier in a van?
A van is a sealed metal box that you breathe and cook in, which makes it a serious moisture environment. The prevailing approach is to prevent moist air reaching the cold steel in the first place — closed-cell materials that are their own vapour retarder, with joints sealed — rather than adding a separate barrier that can trap water behind it. Ventilation is not optional either way.
What about the ribs and the thermal bridge?
The ribs are bare steel running from inside to outside, so they conduct heat straight past whatever you put in the bays between them. Filling the bays and leaving the ribs bare is the most common conversion mistake. A thin continuous layer across the ribs does more for the overall assembly than a thicker layer between them, even though it looks like less insulation.
Should I insulate the van floor?
Yes, and it is often the easiest surface to do well because the floor is flat and you are already building a subfloor over it. It is also the surface with the least room to spare, since anything you add comes off your standing height. Thin high-R board is the usual answer here for the same reason it is elsewhere in the van.
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Ceiling area
64 sq ft


