Comparisons

Batt vs Blown-In Insulation

For an open attic, blown-in almost always outperforms batts in the real world — not because the material is better, but because it covers better.

Updated October 2026 · about 6 min read

Coverage is the whole story

Attic framing is full of odd bays, cross-bracing, wires and truss webs. Batts leave gaps around all of it, and gaps are what kill performance. Loose fill flows around everything and self-levels.

In clean, uniform framing — new construction walls, standard joist bays — batts installed carefully perform just as well.

Cost and speed

DIY material for a 1,500 sq ft attic at R-49 is about 125 bags of cellulose or 38 bags of blown fiberglass before waste — roughly $0.90–$1.60 per sq ft at retail bag prices, and the blower is usually free with the bag order. Two people blow it in 4–6 hours. Batts for the same attic cost more in material — about $2 per sq ft at R-49 on this site's fiberglass batt prices — and take a full weekend of cutting and fitting, and they need two layers (for example R-30 between the joists and R-19 across them) to reach R-49.

Hired out, the gap is small. The national baseline below is what the cost calculators on this site use before your state's labour index.

Installed price, batts vs blown-in, national baseline
JobPer sq ft1,500 sq ft attic / 400 sq ft of wall
Attic, blown-in cellulose (R-49)$1.70$2,550
Attic, blown-in fiberglass (R-49)$1.85$2,775
Attic, fiberglass batts (R-38)$1.60$2,400
Walls, batts in open framing (R-15)$1.75$700
Walls, dense-pack retrofit (drill & fill)$2.60$1,040
National baseline before your state's labour index; the batt attic row is priced at R-38, so blown-in buys more R-value for a similar price.

How much you need: bags vs batts, worked out

Blown-in is sold by the bag, and each bag covers less area the deeper you blow it. Divide your attic floor area by the square feet per bag that the bag chart lists for your target R-value — the table below does it for 1,000 sq ft. Fiberglass needs fewer, lighter bags but a deeper layer, because it is about R-2.5 per inch against cellulose's R-3.6 to R-3.7.

Batts are counted by area, not depth: area ÷ the square feet printed on the bag. An R-13 bag for 2x4 walls typically covers 88–106 sq ft and an R-30 attic bag 40–58 sq ft, so 400 sq ft of open 2x4 wall takes 5 bags of 88 sq ft (42 batts of 15 × 93 in) before waste.

Blown-in for walls means dense-pack: cellulose blown at about 3.5 lb per cubic foot into closed cavities through drilled holes. The same 400 sq ft of 2x4 wall is about 103 cu ft of cavity (88% of the wall is cavity, 3.5 in deep), or 359 lb — 19 bags of 19 lb cellulose for roughly R-13. It needs a high-pressure blower and a fill tube, not the free big-box attic machine.

Blown-in bags for a 1,000 sq ft attic by R-value
TargetCellulose (19 lb bags)Settled depthFiberglass (AttiCat-type bags)Minimum depth
R-3861 bags10.8 in19 bags13.5 in
R-4984 bags13.7 in25 bags17 in
R-60108 bags16.5 in32 bags20.5 in
Before waste: add 5–10%. Cellulose from GreenFiber's 19 lb bag chart, fiberglass bags and minimum depth from Owens Corning's AttiCat fact sheet (27.5 lb bag; 19, 25 and 31.5 bags per 1,000 sq ft at R-38, R-49 and R-60). Scale by your area: 1,500 sq ft is 1.5× these counts.

Gear for this job

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Storage and access

If you need attic storage, batts between joists plus a raised platform keeps things tidy. Deep loose fill and storage do not mix — compressing loose fill with plywood destroys its value.

The hybrid answer

Many good attics use both: batts laid between joists, then blown insulation over the top to bury the thermal bridging of the framing. That combination is hard to beat.

Run the numbers

Frequently asked questions

Can I put batts over blown insulation?
Yes — unfaced batts laid perpendicular over existing loose fill work well. Never lay kraft-faced batts facing up.
Which lasts longer?
Both last decades if kept dry. Loose cellulose settles somewhat; batts can sag if poorly supported.
Which is better for walls?
In open new-construction walls, batts. In closed existing walls, dense-pack blown-in through drilled holes is the only practical retrofit.
How many bags of blown-in insulation do I need for 1,000 sq ft?
At R-49, about 84 bags of 19 lb cellulose or 25 bags of AttiCat-type fiberglass, before 5–10% waste. At R-38 it is about 61 cellulose or 19 fiberglass bags; at R-60 about 108 or 32. The chart on your bag is the final word, since coverage varies by brand.
How do I calculate blown-in insulation for walls?
Work out the cavity volume, not the floor area: wall area × 0.88 (the share that is cavity, not studs) × cavity depth in feet. Multiply by about 3.5 lb per cubic foot for dense-pack cellulose and divide by the bag weight. 400 sq ft of 2x4 wall is about 359 lb, or 19 bags of 19 lb cellulose.
Is blown-in or batt insulation cheaper?
Per square foot installed they are close — about $1.70 for blown cellulose at R-49 against $1.60 for batts at R-38 on this site's national baseline — so blown-in delivers more R-value for the money in an open attic. In walls, batts in open framing ($1.75) beat a dense-pack retrofit ($2.60), but the retrofit is the only option once the drywall is up.

Insulation gear worth owning

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Prices as of Oct 11, 2026, 4:41 AM UTC. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.

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