Comparisons

Open-Cell vs Closed-Cell Spray Foam

Both are polyurethane; the difference is whether the cells are broken open (light, spongy, vapor-open) or sealed (dense, rigid, vapor-closed). They are not interchangeable.

Updated January 2026 · about 6 min read

Quick comparison

Open-cell: about 0.5 lb/ft³, R-3.5 to R-3.9 per inch, vapor permeable, $0.45–$0.75 per board foot installed, expands about 100x so it fills irregular cavities generously.

Closed-cell: about 2 lb/ft³, R-6 to R-7 per inch, a vapor retarder at 1.5–2 inches, $1.00–$1.75 per board foot, adds racking strength and resists bulk water.

Where each belongs

Open-cell suits interior walls, sound control, and vented-to-unvented attic conversions in mixed climates where the roof deck must stay able to dry inward.

Closed-cell suits rim joists, crawl spaces, below-grade walls, flood-prone areas, metal buildings and any place where you need maximum R in a thin cavity.

Cost per R, not per board foot

At equal R-value, open-cell is usually 25–40% cheaper — but only if you have the cavity depth to spend. In a 2x4 wall, closed-cell delivers R-13 in 2 inches while open-cell needs the whole bay to get to R-13.

Sound and moisture

Open-cell is markedly better at absorbing airborne sound. Closed-cell is better at blocking bulk water and vapor. Neither replaces a drainage plane or flashing.

Run the numbers

Frequently asked questions

Which spray foam is better for an attic roof deck?
Both are used; open-cell is common in mixed climates so the deck can dry inward, closed-cell in cold or hurricane zones. Follow local code for ignition barriers and venting.
Is closed-cell foam a vapor barrier?
At about 1.5–2 inches it becomes a Class II vapor retarder, which is enough for most assemblies.
Does open-cell foam absorb water?
It can hold water temporarily but dries out. It should not be used where bulk water contact is likely.

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